Showing posts with label homekeeping. Show all posts
Showing posts with label homekeeping. Show all posts

Miele Capricorn Vacuum - the last vacuum you will ever own...


This vacuum is without a doubt an investment into your home. I compare it to the people that finally buy a decent set of knives or cookware after they have gone through two or three sets and decide that if they would have purchased the better ones initially, they would still have it.  This is exactly how I feel about the Miele Capricorn Vacuum.  What's strange though is that for all the power and work this amazing piece of equipment provides, I wonder sometimes if it is actually on.  It is so extremely quiet, which means your family won't mind when you vacuum while they are on the phone or watching television.  I literally can have a normal conversation with someone in the room while I am using it.  It is also lightweight, doing your stairs with this machine doesn't require you having a gym membership and all of the attachments make cleaning a breeze.

This is wonderful for people who suffer from allergies, or if you have animals.  Did you know that with the Miele filter that the air coming out of the vacuum is cleaner than the air around you?  I also like how I can use it on rugs, long-piled carpet or even hardwood.  It takes care of my whole house!  If you are serious about keeping your home clean, the you cannot go wrong with this vacuum, it offers tremendous value.  I would consider it the 'strong, silent type' of vacuum - only the baggage involved in this relationship is easily disposed of....

Appliances - Rowenta Expert Iron


No job is too much for this powerhouse. I knew I was making a solid investment when I purchased this iron. Continuous steam generation for ironing shirts, pants and other linens beyond your imagination.

This iron is even more slick because it allows you to add water while you are ironing if you see you have used up the massive 33 oz. water reservoir. This newer model allows you to see the water level. There is even an area to store your power cord of the way.
Who knew Rowenta could make one of my favorite things even more fun? I guess the real question is - should I admit that I enjoy ironing? Oh well, there goes my social life....

Luxury 101 - Bedding


I believe that since I spend 1/3 of my life in my bed, I may as well have an enjoyable experience in it. A while ago I found this great resource for fantastic duvets, pillows and down featherbeds. I use the Charter Club pieces via Macy's. I have the lightweight and heavyweight pillows and the lightweight and heavyweight duvets (depending on the weather). I have always liked the look of two comforters on a bed. Every morning when I make the bed I twist the featherbed 1/4 turn to keep it from getting worn in one place.

I also attached seam binding to the corners of my duvets as well as to the inside corners of the duvet covers - then tie them in a loose knot to keep them from shifting one way or another (bottom photo).

When purchasing down products, steer away from anything advertising hand-harvested goose down, this is inhumane (they pluck the feathers off the live animal). It may sound better, but in the end is not. Most down that you buy derives itself from the food industry in case you did not know where it all comes from.

I cannot say enough about how wonderful this bedding is. Plush, fluffy pillows - it really is an essential to me and the price point meets anyone's budge (even today). You can find the bedding via the following links:
Comforters
Pillows
Featherbeds

More Towel Terminology

A towel is a towel, right? Wrong. There are many different types. The glossary below defines towel terminology.
Terry – Cotton terry towels are woven on a loom. Terry towels utilize an additional yarn to form loops which cover both sides of the towel.These loops are normally referred to as "pile" or "loop surfaces."
Velour – Velour towels are produced in the same fashion as terry, but with an additional process that shears the terry loops to a shorter length on one side. Some people prefer the decorative sheen that results. The terry side should face the skin for optimum drying.
Printed – Colorful designs are printed on the surface of both terry or velour towels. Designs are normally printed on one side.
Jacquard – These towels feature a slightly upraised area of fabric, which creates a decorative effect. The design is woven right into the towel on a special jacquard loom.

Bedding Terms - Weave

Weave is also important, whether you choose a classic linen weave, silky sateen or crispy percale (pictured above). Since feeling the sheet is the best way to decide what you like best, you should do some in-person shopping (or touching) even if you plan to buy online.

The best way to care for your sheets and avoid wrinkles is to avoid overloading the washing machine, and don't mix cotton sheets with anything polyester, as the combination can cause the cotton to pill. When you take the sheets out of the washer, give a good shake before putting them in the dryer rather than wadding up the bundle. Then take them out of the dryer slightly damp, and fold or line dry.

Linens - Finishing

After the cotton yarns are woven into a fabric, the fabric needs to be finished. This includes singeing and mercerizing. The singeing process is vital; it burns off the tiny fuzz that can later develop into pilling on your sheets. Mercerizing is a treatment conducted under tension, in order to increase strength, luster, and affinity for dye. Bed linens of lesser quality may not be singed or mercerized.

Linens - Thread Count & Construction


Thread count is simply the number of threads per square inch of fabric. These consist of vertical threads (warp) and horizontal threads (weft) woven together. Construction refers to how the thread count is achieved (# of warp and weft yarns, # of picks in the weft, use of 2 ply yarns etc.) To achieve higher thread counts, sometimes 2 ply yarns are used and sometimes multiple yarns (picks) are inserted into the weft. The FTC has ruled that plied yarns should each only be counted as one thread for the purposes of thread count. This is not enforced, but in response the market has moved more toward single plies with multiple picks as the preferred method of achieving higher thread counts. In weave quality terms alone, the best fabric would be made with single ply yarns and have a single pick; but the highest thread count you can get with this type of construction is about 400. Above that, 2 ply yarns and/or multi-picks must be used.

The buzz about "single ply" in the last five years or so, was a reaction to customers feeling cheated by the concept of 2 ply. (meaning a 300 thread count constuction made with 2 ply yarns and called a 600 thead count) But the "single ply" concept has its own problems, as stated above. Sheets made with "single ply" yarns but with 6 to 8 picks do not necessarily result in the best feeling or highest quality weave - - but they do achieve the higher thread count in a way deemed more correct by international standards and the FTC.

In a quality product, the incremental comfort value of thread counts over 300 is very little. A 300 thread count can feel far superior to a 1000 thread count. Thread count has become a simple measurement used by marketing people to capture interest and impress with high numbers. The problem with mass produced high thread count sheets is that to keep the price down, important elements of quality must be sacrificed, meaning in the end the customer gets a product with an impressive thread count but that probably feels no better (or even worse) than something with a lower thread count.

How does this happen?
Weaving with 2 ply yarns that do not have a high enough yarn size so the end product feels heavy and blanket-like.
Inserting multiple yarn threads (picks) into the weft. These are often visible to the naked eye. I've heard of as many as 8. This practice increases the thread count but otherwise really has no practical or useful purpose. Depending on the number of picks and yarn size used it can also make the product feel heavy.

There is no simple answer to the thread count, ply and pick game; there are thousands of combinations that will make a beautiful product. We've seen excellent examples of every type of construcion (thanks to quality fiber, yarn size and finishing). Keep in mind that with higher thread counts, price and quality do tend to go hand in hand. An extremely high thread count sheet at a very low price is exactly what it sounds like: too good to be true. This is not to say that you have to spend a small fortune for quality sheets - just don't fall into the thread count trap. Unfortunately, a lot of companies don't make it easy to be well informed.

Towel Terminology

When purchasing towels, thickness should not be your only determining factor. New fibers hitting the market are both lighter and more absorbent than traditional cotton. Some are made of natural fibers It is said that there is a new movement when it comes to big fluffy towels, people are having a downsizing mentality. New towel technologies in include Modal, a natural fiber made from beech wood, that when blended with cotton creates a lightweight, highly absorbent towel. Consumers shouldn't be put off by the initial stiffness of some towels, in the weaving process, a potato starch is sometimes used on the thread and some of that may remain. Towels will get softer as you wash them.

Attractive towels can be made from many different fibers, but functional concerns should be considered when stocking up on these bathroom essentials. As a towel’s main purpose is to blot up water, 100 percent cotton towels are the best for the job. Cotton is hydrophilic, which means it has a strong affinity for water. Synthetic fibers, on the other hand are hydrophobic; this means that a cotton-polyester towel will not be as absorbent as an all-cotton towel. Cotton actually absorbs moisture within the structure of the fiber, between its various layers or walls.

Terry Cloth or Velour?
A terry cloth towel features loops that enhance its drying ability. The more loops, the greater the drying power. But some people prefer the sheen of a velour towel, which is created by a shearing process that removes part of the terry and shortens the fabric pile. But keep in mind that the velour towel’s shorter loops makes it slightly less absorbent. However, this does not affect its performance as long as it is used to blot, rather than rub dry. Shoppers who can’t decide which they prefer, are in luck: some towels feature terry on one side and velour on the other.

Another measure of a towel’s drying ability is its thickness. Thick towels contain more
cotton yarn; the thick loops will dry the body better than thin loops made with less cotton.
Make Sure It’s Cotton since cotton content plays such a key role in a towel’s effectiveness, consumers can be sure they are purchasing 100 percent cotton towels by looking for the Seal of Cotton trademark, which appears on many towels, bath and bedding items. In fact, two out of three Americans would rather buy all-cotton towels from an unknown manufacturer than a cotton/polyester blend towel from an established brand, according to the recent studies.

Towel Care Tips
Good towels should last more than a decade, which means consumers should consider making an "investment" by purchasing the highest quality towels they can afford.

Here are some tips that will help prolong the life of a towel:
Launder frequently with soft water and detergent.
Avoid fabric softeners as they contain silicones that will make them virtually water repellent.
Deeply colored towels will bleed during the first three or four washings, so wash them separately at first. After that, continue to wash similar colors together.
Do not bleach colored towels.
Wash white towels separately because subtle pick-up from colored items will occur gradually over time.
If drying by hanging, shake towel once while still wet, and again after dry. This will fluff the terry loops.
Do not iron towels, as it will reduce absorbency.

Linens - Yarn Size


In continuation of our series demystifying bed linens and what to look for the next time you purchase we cover yarn size. The fineness of each yarn is what the term yarn size refers to - the higher the yarn size, the finer the yarn. Alternatively this is also how you can determine the gauge of wire.

Finer yarns allow for lighter, more supple fabric. The yarn size in quality sheets is typically between 40 and 100. Some companies go up to 120's may be used also, but are pretty rare (and the resulting product very expensive). Higher thread counts are created with finer yarns, as more of them can be woven into a square inch. Also, super fine yarns can be twisted together, creating 2 ply yarns that can then be woven into sheeting. When 2 ply yarns are made with a very high yarn size, they make a nice product that is not at all weighty or blanket-like.

Linens - Fiber Quality


So you are out looking for new sheets for your bed and I would venture to guess that one of the first things you thought about was the thread count. Sure thread count matters, but there are several things aside from thread count to consider when you are buying linens for your home. I am going to break down these points so you can make more informed decisions and not pay for anything more than you need to.

Our first topic is fiber quality. 100% cotton sheets are by far the most popular and widely used type of sheets. There are massive variations in the quality of 100% cotton sheets. The highest quality cotton is long staple cotton. Staple refers to the length of the cotton fiber; the longer the fiber the better because it creates stronger and finer yarns. Among long staple cottons, the longest are Egyptian extra long staple and Pima (sometimes called Supima). Egyptian Cotton and Pima cotton are basically one in the same.

Egyptian cotton, or extra long staple cotton is produced in Egypt and used by luxury and upmarket brands worldwide. In fact, the cotton species which produces extra long staple "Egyptian" cotton is the native American species Gossypium barbadense was introduced in the 19th century during the American Civil War.

With heavy European investments, Egyptian-grown cotton became a major alternate source for British textile mills. Most of what is labeled "Egyptian cotton" today, however, also includes long staple cotton, the product of the other native American species Gossypiam hirsutum.

Gossypium hirsutum, also known as Upland Cotton or Mexican Cotton, is the most widely planted species of cotton in the United States, constituting some 95% of all cotton production. Worldwide, the figure is about 90% of all production for this species.

Interestingly enough, ancient Egyptians made their clothing from linen, a product of the flax plant - not cotton.

Bleach - What is it?


Have you ever wondered what exactly is bleach and how does it work?

There are several types of bleach. Chlorine bleach usually contains sodium hypochlorite. Oxygen bleach contains hydrogen peroxide or a peroxide-releasing compound such as sodium perborate or sodium percarbonate. Bleaching powder is calcium hypochlorite. You can find descriptions of the scientific names below.

An oxidizing bleach works by breaking the chemical bonds of a chromophore (part of a molecule that has color). This changes the molecule so that it either has no color or else reflects color outside the visible spectrum.

A reducing bleach works by changing the double bonds of a chromophore into single bonds. This alters the optical properties of the molecule, making it colorless.

In addition to chemicals, energy can disrupt chemical bonds to bleach out color. For example, the high energy photons in sunlight (e.g., ultraviolet rays) can disrupt the bonds in chromophores to decolorize them.

Sodium hypochlorite is a chemical compound with the formula NaClO. Sodium hypochlorite solution, commonly known as bleach, is frequently used as a disinfectant or a bleaching agent

Sodium percarbonate is a white crystalline water-soluble adduct of sodium carbonate and hydrogen peroxide. Sodium percarbonate is the active ingredient in many powdered oxygen eco-friendly bleach products, including OxiClean.

Is bleach safe on the environment? Sodium hypochlorite has been used for the disinfection of drinking water, at a concentration equivalent to about 1 liter of household bleach per 4000 liters of water is used. For emergency disinfection, the United States Environmental Protection Agency recommends the use of 2 drops of 5%ac household bleach per quart of water. If the treated water doesn't smell of bleach, 2 more drops are to be added.

Note: Do Not mix it with acids or any other organic chemicals. The chlorine gas given off is toxic

Lastly, cleaning with a neutral detergent alone will remove 80-90% of bacteria. So you don't have to over use bleach in your home.

Cleaning - Bar Keepers Friend


Brands are more interesting when they are owned by small companies, and have some history.
That’s why we love Bar Keepers Friend, founded in 1882.

It’s great for cleaning copper-bottomed kitchen pans, and is made by the same company that makes the brand of disinfectant Hexol, the pine-oil cleaner founded in 1927. Its main ingredient is oxalic acid; its distinctive scent just smells like cleanliness. Its mild abrasives clean everything from fiberglass to chrome.

I've tried a lot of different cleaning products over the years and I keep coming back to the one that does the job best - Bar Keepers Friend. This stuff could probably clean up after a nuclear disaster. When it comes to burnt or caked on sauce that has been simmering for hours, and you keep getting reminded it is there whenever you stir your dish - no need to fret, this stuff will clean it up. Sometimes I need to soak it, in fact that is usually best for those pothole burns to soften it up. But in the end, Bar Keepers Friend WILL clean it up. Also, if you hang your pots and pans - this keeps them looking brand new. I specifically purchased the anodized finish All-Clad pans because I knew I would be hanging them and they would always look great. After 14 years, they still do.

Appliances - Electrolux Washer & Dryer


Leave it to Electrolux to come up with an excuse to actually do laundry. Their front-loading washer and dryer with IQ Touch Controls are absolutely astounding. It even has a setting that will do a small load for you in 18 minutes. Keep that in mind the next time your child forgets to wash their sports uniform or black pants they need for the school concert.
Steam generation in the dryer makes de-wrinkling those trousers or shirt you need for that important meeting a snap - or if you just want to freshen up your outfit so you do not have to change clothes before you hit a night out on the town.

The largest capacity you can find out there and in great color combinations too.

This pair is a true investment in your household and lifestyle. I can tell you that your life WILL be made easier and laundry is effortless when you own these. Now in my fantasy world I see two of each so it gets done twice as fast!

Appliances - Miele Mangle Iron



If you own table linens like I do, then the Miele Mangle Iron is a must-have. Ironing tablecloths, runners and napkins becomes an effortless task with this machine. How can you complain when you get to sit down, feed the linens and it automatically irons it for you. I sit down and watch CNN while I keep my tablecloths and cloth napkins in like, new condition with this fantastic rotary iron. How about slipping into bed with perfectly, ironed sheets and pillowcases? All a snap with this!

When you are done, it folds down so you can store it away. Miele has designed a solid machine for the home and it truly is an investment for your collection of linens.

The Best Flour Sack Towels - Not embroidered



Next time you need to stock up on pricey microfiber rags or disposable electrostatic dust cloths, opt for flour sack towels instead. Flour sack towels outperform microfiber and disposable dust cloths for cleaning and dusting all areas of your home. They're large, absorbent, durable, and (perhaps most importantly) cheap.

What in the World are Flour Sack Towels?
They're called "flour sack towels" because the tightly woven cotton used to hold flour from the mid-1800s through the 1950s was repurposed into towels, bedding, and clothing by the resourceful women of days gone by. You can buy a set of five through me for just $10 + shipping.
OK, So They're Cheap. But Do They Clean?
I've been using a set of flour sack towels for decades. I use several a day as I do general cleaning and trail after my daughter. They still look great after several hundred washings–and I use chlorine bleach, people!

I'm sure you all can think of many more super ideas for using flour sack towels. Here are a few of my favorite uses:
Dusting:
Flour sack towels are lint-free, making them ideal for dry-dusting TV and computer screens.
Use them with furniture polish or lemon oil for dusting wood furniture.
They hold onto dirt better than any microfiber/Swiffer-style cloth I've used, so they're great for dusting ceiling fans and blinds.
Baby:
Bib: tie the short end around your baby's neck to cover her body from chin to knees, or fold the towel in half for cup practice or messy foods for double-layer absorbency.
Burp Cloth: lip one over your shoulder to burp a gassy baby–supersized flour sack towels cover more of you (always a good thing when you're in the line of upchuck fire). I did this so many times when my daughter started screaming just as I started prepping dinner. Saved me 30 seconds from trekking to her room in search of a burp cloth–in screamtime, that's 4 perceived hours.
Kitchen:
Lint-free flour sack towels are fantastic for drying dishes, particularly glassware, without streaking.
Wipe up messy kitchen spills: coffee, marinara, grease–I use them on everything, because the stains come out easily in the wash with a scoop of Biz or cup of Clorox, no problem.
Cover dough to keep it from drying out as it rises (slightly dampened), or cover baked goods to keep insects and dust out while they cool without trapping steam inside as foil or plastic wrap can.
Weird but true point on sanitary cleaning: flour sack towels don't trap hair (like cloth napkins and terry cloth towels do),so you won't have to pore over your towels looking for icky stray hairs before you use them around food.
Dry lettuce and veggies after washing–just wrap the food in a clean flour sack towel and gently squeeze.
Note: Don't use fabric softener if you use flour sack towels for food prep–nobody wants their brownies to smell April Fresh and fabric softener makes them less absorbent!
Shine your faucet with the damp flour sack towel after you finish drying dishes, then use it to spot-mop the kitchen floor–3 cleaning tasks quickly done with 1 towel.
Windows and Mirrors: Have I mentioned that flour sack towels are lint-free?


Make them pretty!
If you just can't hang with plain ol' white, buy a set of them from me that have been embroidered. I have many patterns that I have done, check out the flour sack towel link for more ideas. Embridered towels run $7 per towel + shipping. I still bleach these and have never had the colors fade.  NON-embroidered towels are $2 per towel. 







Ironing 101 - cloth napkins

Now I know some people say ironing is a chore, I would tend to disagree. I find ironing to be relaxing and my perspective is it is all in how you do the task that makes a difference in how you perceive it. I recently entertained for forty people and decided I would show you how to iron properly. For today, I am going to discuss with you how to iron your cloth napkins and keep them looking like they do in the store (or as close to it).Cloth napkins are a great way to dress up a table for any occasion. Whenever I launder them, I always first check them for any unnerving stains and spot treat those with shout or if the linens are white, I have bleach with water (50/50 blend) in a spray bottle that I only spray direct on the spot. I always wash linens on cold, except for linens that are completely white (which are done in hot) - but then use a cold rinse. If you think you have some difficult stains, you can try using warm, but then a cold rinse.

Once they are done in the washer, you can either begin the ironing process then or you can throw them into a plastic garbage bag to keep them damp (up to 48 hours). If I do not have any other laundry to do and know I will have time to iron them in the next 48 hours, I will keep the linens in my washer to keep damp. Do not do this for an extended period of time or your linens will then need to be laundered again. Otherwise you can pull them out - DO NOT PUT THEM IN THE DRYER... EVER! If you are not going to have time for a while, then pull them out and let them air dry until you are ready to iron them.



I placed these dry linens into a laundry basket and poured one small glass of cold water (one at a time) over them until they were damp. I then let them sit for 15 minutes before I started to iron them to make sure they were all wet. I also always have a spray bottle filled with water to use whenever the linens are dry. You want a damp linen when you are ironing so you achieve that crisp look to your linen.The workhorse, my Rowenta Pressure Steam Iron. I have to start this iron seven minutes before I can use it due to the large water holding tank that generates the steam. This thing doesn't quit, it can go for hours. You can see the damp linen to the right.



Now I begin to iron the damp napkin. You should have steam coming off the linen and you sometimes on darker linens will notice the color lighten as the water/steam evaporate from it.

Here I have done half the napkin, you can see the color change. Once you are done with the entire linen, you then fold it in half, and iron over the entire half. You will still most likely have some steam arising, that is good because it allows for good creases.


Then you fold the napkin over itself again so it resembles a long strip and you iron over that again.
Lastly, you fold that strip in half over itself so you can see the edges/corners and finally iron over that. By doing this, you will add years of life to your napkins and make many table settings and events more special.

Old, made new






Several years ago I came into an old pie safe that was owned by a friend's grandmother. I had this in storage for years until my recent move to the farm which led me to limited cupboard space. I soon realized that I could reinvent this pie safe into a pantry for my dinnerware. It lends charm to the space and is an unexpected storage facility for dishes that are needed, sine the dining table is situated right there. Platters and serving pieces are stored below for accessibility as well. I believe the pie safe adds a vintage feel to my decor.
In our current world state, it's a good time to look around and find ways to recycle what you have and give it a fresh, new use in an alternative location - or even painting an object, you never know what you have until you open up your mind to new ideas!